I say this as someone who, during my years in Hong Kong, gritted my teeth every time a journalist breezed through for a few days, churning out that same tired refrain: “Doomed, just another Chinese city, end of one country, two systems.”
Yet on a recent short vacation in the city that I still regard as my second home, I found myself judging and assessing, trying to gauge how its food and beverage (F&B) scene is really doing.
Retail in Hong Kong is clearly suffering – mainland visitors are tightening their purse strings, and locals haven’t been in a free-spending mood even as the city begins to emerge from the pall of the past few years following the 2019 political crisis and extreme pandemic-era isolation.
But my real question is whether restaurants are truly in freefall. If the F&B scene is on life support, that speaks to something bigger about a city’s pulse.
Dining out isn’t just about food – it’s about foot traffic, nightlife and the buzz that keeps an urban centre alive. If fewer people are going out, Hong Kong risks losing the intangible spark that sets it apart from other metropolises.
So, as I soaked up the cool 16-degree days, tackled hiking trails, gobbled claypot rice with extra lup cheong (Chinese sausage), and savoured sublime siu mei (roast meats), I was conducting my own five-day survey.
On paper, the situation is dire. Figures released in November 2024 showed restaurant receipts for the first three quarters of the year fell 0.3 per cent in value and 2.9 per cent in volume, compared to the same period in 2023.
That’s despite tourism numbers soaring from pandemic lows, suggesting something is off – the city should be closer to pre-coronavirus normality by now.
I learnt that neighbours were gobbling up Hong Kong’s cheese.
Mr Simon Wong Ka-wo, president of the Hong Kong Federation of Restaurants and Related Trades, tells me it’s not only on weekends that close to a million Hong Kongers head to Shenzhen or other Greater Bay Area cities for cheaper meals, massages and groceries.
Large numbers are also doing so on weeknights. Once those consumer habits set in, a few restaurant vouchers won’t bring them back.
This has me thinking about Singapore. Could we be looking at a similar trend?
Since moving back to Singapore last year, I’ve heard countless stories of friends spending weekends in Johor Bahru – a scenario that existed in pre-pandemic years but now plays out on a far grander scale.
Maybe it’s the pinch of inflation, that favourable 3-1 exchange rate for the Singapore dollar to the ringgit, or the fact that Johor Bahru – with its swanky malls like Mid Valley Southkey and hipster cafes along Jalan Dhoby – just has more to offer these days.
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Either way, the lure across the border is real. I even know of upper-crust folks making the weeknight drive up for groceries and dinner – some at high-end spots, others at humble warungs.
With the RTS link connecting Woodlands to Bukit Chagar across the border set to be operational in 2027, this cross-border pull will only grow.
So, what’s the solution for Singapore operators? How do you survive as a restaurateur when faced with cheaper alternatives just across the border? Is there a way to keep the lights on without rolling over?
The service
First, a Professor Obvious observation: service matters. The Hong Kong stalwarts I’ve frequented for years – Joy Hing Roasted Meat in Wan Chai, Kwan Kee Claypot Rice,and the cramped “Congteakafe” in Sai Ying Pun – continue to thrive by delivering exceptional, authentic experiences.
They offer that uniquely Hong Kong experience: you’re brusquely ushered to a table, often sharing because space is so tight.
You order char siu rice and tong nai chaa (iced milk tea) and get your food within minutes. Brusque, sure, but businesslike rather than rude – efficiency with a touch of civility beneath the no-nonsense facade.
The Hong Kong government also launched a tourist-facing “smile more” campaign last year, but nobody’s really asking for that.
Just be genuine. Keep the legendary Hong Kong efficiency, and we’re good – no forced grins required.
Mr Wong confirms this: patrons are indeed reporting better service at many places. Owners, having long neglected niceties, are now pulling out all the stops to revive their flagging fortunes. A slightly eased manpower crunch – thanks to labour from the mainland – has helped.
A uniquely Hong Kong experience: you’re brusquely ushered to a table, often sharing because space is so tight. PHOTO: AFP
There could be further improvement, Mr Wong contends (ever the industry lobbyist), if more labour were allowed in. But like in Singapore and everywhere else, the government has to manage the flow of foreign workers.
Ultimately, you can keep some of your customers from seeking cheaper pastures – whether it’s Shenzhen or JB – if you deliver more than just a meal.
Good service, a strong brand and a unique experience can turn dining into more than a commodity. People might cross the border for a deal, but they’ll stay loyal to a place that makes them feel part of its story.
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The hustle
Next, the art of hustling. After a day of hiking in Sai Kung – a peninsula famed for its beaches and trails – a friend and I sought a post-hike, pre-dinner drink. We ended up at a bustling Western restaurant in Sai Kung’s town centre while other eateries along the strip were nearly empty. The difference? An indefatigable maitre d’ engaging everyone who walked by, politely coaxing them to check out the menu. In the 30 minutes we were there, her success rate was 100 per cent, and extra seats were needed to accommodate the patrons she had lured in – including us.
When we praised her knack for doing this, she modestly replied: “They’re here for the food and drinks, not me.” That’s the Hong Kong hustle I remember: spirited energy that never quits. Her relentless enthusiasm was a breath of fresh air, embodying the upbeatness I sensed across the city – a feeling that this might be the year Hong Kong turns the corner, overcoming the moroseness and defeatism of recent years.
When Shenzhen is just a short train ride away and you can’t compete on cost, you hustle.
The same applies to Singapore as Johor Bahru becomes more accessible through improved infrastructure and seamless travel. If you can’t match the other side’s prices, charm diners with a unique sense of place. That’s the Hong Kong many of us cherish – and it’s the mindset Singapore’s restaurateurs need to thrive.
Connectivity cuts both ways
Third, increased connectivity is both a challenge and a strength that Hong Kong can use to its advantage. Mr Wong, on whom I tested my observations in a phone interview following my trip, emphasised that Hong Kong’s best opportunity lies in tapping into the vast 86 million-strong population of the Greater Bay Area.
For Shenzhen, the benefits are clear. Hong Kong residents frequently travel north for short and extended stays, thanks to seamless cross-border travel. No passport is needed – just a Hong Kong ID and a “return home” permit allow entry to the mainland. It’s likely that the authorities in Singapore and Malaysia aim to replicate this ease, in some manner, with the upcoming RTS link.
During my trip, I took a swift 45-minute train ride from Admiralty in the heart of Hong Kong’s business district to the Lo Wu border crossing in Shenzhen. Immigration was a breeze, and I couldn’t help but smile at the affordable biangbiang mian and other tasty treats in the bustling Shenzhen mall I visited – all at a significant discount compared to Hong Kong. The experience revealed to me the irresistible allure of seamless connectivity, drawing Hong Kong diners to Shenzhen for both sumptuous and wallet-friendly delights.
However, Mr Wong emphasises that this connectivity also brings significant opportunities for Hong Kong. Just as Hong Kong, a city of 7.5 million people, saw a 48 per cent increase in mainland visits, totaling 93 million trips (excluding air travel) in 2024, inbound travel from the mainland surged by 27 per cent to 34 million trips.
Instead of viewing cross-border travel solely as competition, he urges restaurateurs to capitalise on the growing number of mainland tourists visiting Hong Kong. In December, the mainland authorities reinstated multi-entry visas for Shenzhen residents, allowing unlimited seven-day stays each year – a policy revoked in 2015 due to concerns over overcrowding and parallel trading. The Hong Kong authorities now hope such access will be extended to residents of other major Chinese hubs, further boosting visitor numbers.
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According to Mr Wong, the key for Hong Kong’s restaurant and struggling retail sectors is to embrace the “volume game” that comes with more unrestricted travel for mainland residents. While Hong Kong can’t compete on cost, it can leverage its strengths to rejuvenate its vibrant nightlife. By attracting enough mainland travellers, Hong Kong can revive its lively evening scene, encouraging more local patrons to stay and enjoy what the city uniquely offers.
Ultimately, it’s not about fearing competition – it’s about evolving to meet it head-on by adapting to changing market trends. While Singapore’s restaurant industry isn’t facing the same level of pressure as Hong Kong’s, adopting a similar proactive mindset is crucial – and the good thing is it already seems to be taking shape. As STFood online editor Eunice Quek highlighted last September, many Singaporean restaurant groups have begun shifting from fine dining to more casual, affordable options. They’re launching new offerings for budget-conscious diners, demonstrating their agility in adapting to evolving market dynamics.
Hong Kong’s nightlife is slowly returning to life, but crowds at popular spots like Peel Street are nowhere close to levels before the city’s political and pandemic crisis from 2019-2022. ST PHOTO: BHAVAN JAIPRAGAS
For Hong Kong, my takeaway from this admittedly unscientific and informal study of the city’s food and beverage scene is clear: the Fragrant Harbour is neither down and out nor easily replaceable by Shenzhen – at least not yet. Hong Kong retains its inimitable charm – a blend of grit, spirit and uniqueness that defies easy categorisation.
The situation is far less bleak than it may appear from the outside. I share Mr Wong’s cautious optimism that “there is beginning to be some light at the end of the tunnel for the restaurant sector”. With resilience and the city’s indomitable spirit, brighter days undoubtedly lie ahead. Singapore, take note.
Bhavan Jaipragas is deputy Opinion editor and a columnist at The Straits Times.
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